Prabal Gurung is an early bird.
The designer wakes up at 5 every morning, and the first thing he does is make his bed “because if nothing else, at least I know I’ve accomplished something.”
Afterward, she went straight into meditation, and it was in these moments of zen that Gurung said she felt most inspired, both by New York and the women who inhabit it. “I see them going to work or coming home after a late night,” he explained over Zoom, “and that’s the beauty of it. It’s almost like a romance I’m experiencing with this city.”
The two archetypes — the unashamedly disheveled party girl on her way to the office and the well-dressed CEO on her way to the office — act like passing ships in Gurung’s resort lookbook, which is titled “First Light.”
“I wanted to capture the spirit of this woman when she was alone…My idea was: both Can live together.” Not only can they coexist, they can tease each other’s wardrobes, blurring the boundaries between day and night, dressed and undressed, creating one fashion that works all the time.
Take for example the elongated collarless Gurung jacket with gently fluted hips. Cut from thick crepe, it is structured on a sheer chiffon skirt with a dipped, tiered hemline. Elsewhere, a divine raincoat in champagne-colored silk jacquard worn half-open like a bathrobe with panties underneath got a more appropriate touch thanks to a cardigan tied around the shoulders. “It should feel like he’s hugging and caressing you,” Gurung offers.
Knitwear, which he produces in his native Nepal, is big business for Gurung’s brand, and he elevated one of his other cardigans with beaded organza flowers, providing a moment of rich texture that previously felt lacking in this collection.
If released during the holiday season, Gurung’s two muses would likely go their separate ways. One might wander around to watch the ball drop wearing a sequined sheath, while another might jet off to a more tropical locale where the warm breeze can blow through her set of Berber striped halters.
“He could be anywhere in the world,” explains Gurung, “because the sun rises in New York, in Kathmandu, in Tangier, it’s the same.”
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